The Lads

Mr Barclay, Tom Bola and Jack Reader.
by Modeltown

The Quarry Hunslet 'Alice' class from PDF Models - The Making Of. (Part 2)

Quartering

Taking the cranks as pairs, screw in a 2mm x 10mm countersink screw to each for the front pair and a 2mm x 16mm countersink screw to each for the rear pair. Enlarge slightly the holes in the rods to enable the 2mm bearings to fit freely. Fit the rods to the front cranks and fit to the axles using a 0.9mm allen key. Loosely set the front cranks 90 degrees to each other. Do not over tighten.

Similar to the above, fit the rear cranks 90 degrees to each other. Don't fit the rods to the rear just yet.

Test for free movement and if necessary adjust the cranks until running freely. Then fit the connecting rods and test again.

The footplate can now be fitted. But before doing so, countsink the two front holes before fitting to the chassis using four 2mm x 6mm bolts.

The above photos also include the motor cradle fitted with two 3mm bolts.

The buffer beams were now fitted using two 3mm bolts, screwed directly into the chassis frame (no nut). Like the connecting rods they were painted before fitting with Red Primer and Fiat Red Orange.

Part 1

Part 3

The Quarry Hunslet 'Alice' class from PDF Models - The Making Of. (Part 1)

The chassis

Purchased in 2021 from PDF Models, this kit would make a brilliant addition to my fleet of engines. The only difference this time is that there will be no need to charge it up or raise steam before it can be operated.

Although a relatively easy kit to build, I would say it is more for the medium experienced modeller. The instructions lack punctuation, so a good read through and familiarisation with the components before starting is a must. PDF Models also provide contruction videos via their website.

Starting off with the chassis, identfy the two sides and frame spacers. Glue into the spacers 2mm nuts, using the bolts to hold them in place whilst the glue dries. Once set, remove the bolts and paint the chassis parts.

I used Halfords spray cans throughout the making of this model. Here the chassis was given two coats of grey primer and finished with two coats of satin black.

During this process I prepared the two cylinder covers for painting. This involved removing the 3D printing ridges using various grades of sandpaper, starting with 80, 180, 1200 and 2000. It takes some time, but well worth it.

After 24 hours once the paint had hardened, the chassis was bolted together using 8mm bolts.

At this point, the centre cylinder holes were lightly opened up using a 3.2mm drill bit. This enabled the brass cylinder tube to be inserted and glued leaving a protrusion of approximately 7mm at the rear of each cylinder.

In preparation of fitting the cylinders to the chassis, the two holes on the rear of each cylinder were opened up slightly with a 2.5mm drill bit and tapped with the 3mm cap head bolts.

Now to make the cylinder slide bars and mechanism. Take each cross head and glue in the 2mm steel rod. I then temporarily fitted the cylinders to the chassis with cap head bolts. Slide the cross head and rod into the cylinder tube and fit the slide bar holder. Once checked for free movement a spot of glue was applied to the holder and rear cylinder and the slide bars were fitted. Once set, I remove the cylinder from the frame and fitted each connecting rod* using a 2mm x 6mm bolt (but not too tightly as it has to slide freely.) 

*I thought it a good idea to paint the connecting rods before fitting using Red Primer with a top coat of Fiat Red Orange.

Taking the gearbox housing, the bearing holes were opened up to 4mm (drilled) and the bearings fitted. The axle was then slid through the bearings and the gear added. Once happy with its free movement, a spot of glue was daubed onto the outside of the bearings to hold them in place. Once all okay, I tested the movement with a 3v battery before adding a spot of gear oil.

The chassis was now un-screwed and the wheel bearings fitted. Do not attempt to fit these with the chassis screwed together! Fit with a wooden or nylon head modellers hammer making sure that the 'top hat' is on the outside of the frame.

The wheels were next fitted to the axles by pressing them on until a distance of 41mm for 45mm gauge (28mm for 32mm gauge) was achieved. Either use a vice back to back or in my case my nylon headed hammer.

Fit the the chassis back together, slotting in the axles and wheels to complete the frame.

Refit the cylinders with the 3mm cap head bolts.

Part 2

The Bird Box

This intriguing little model caught my eye as it was a little different from other wagons and brake vans that I'd seen.

Plateway Models provided this kit in a box containing separate  brown paper bags with the different sections and components.

Initially the sides and end panels and their associated overlays were checked for square before being glued together with Titebond Wood Glue.

However, before gluing the bird box end panels together, a thin strip of clear plastic for the window was inserted between the layers. 

Then after checking for 'square', the four complete panels were glued together.

All's square.

The remaining sides for the 'bird cage' were added, followed by the two roof sections. For the roof I used IP Engineering's roof gig to obtain that perfectly curved roof.

The doors can be glued in place or with a little ingenenuity can be made to open and close. I opted for the latter using coffee stirrers as a guide for the doors to slide along.

The hand rails and door handles were fitted using the little jig provided (nice touch Plateway).

The two chassis members were now fitted to the underside of the wagon. They were spaced according to my gauge. Axle boxes were then attached to the chassis using the locations marked with rivet detail.

(Included in the kit is Plateways totem which was duly fitted to the underneath)

I decided to paint this model by hand to give the wooden planking more texture and to help whilst painting the window frames. Using Humbrol Matt Light Grey No.64 for the body and Humbrol Matt Black No.33 for the chassis and iron work and hand rails.

Although the roof sections were scribed to give the appearance of planking, I preferred to utilise a method I'd used before using paper napkin tissue. The roof was sprayed with adhesive spray and a smoothed out napkin applied. Before it dried, another spray and another napkin was applied. Left to dry overnight prior to painting. The next morning Humbrol Matt White No.34 was applied to the roof sections. At this stage, the tissue will bubble and crease as it gets damper. Don't panic, just let it dry. Once dry repeat with a second coat of white paint and leave to dry. Once dry the roof should look creased as though it was stretched material.

Finally the completed model was varnished with Humbrol acyllic matt spray.

A working rear lantern was added to the rear, with a 3v battery box tucked up inside the wagon. The buffers were added and a little oil was added to the wheel bearings.

Even More Little People

Nora, Winston, Little Ryan and Mrs Duffy.
by Modeltown

Alpine Gardens

 

Alpine Gardens, a new HLR garden, is due to open later this month with a dedicated station created for the visiting members and suppliers to the gardens.

More Little People

Bailey, Mac, Giff, Doc, Arthur and Bill.
by Modeltown