Friday, 22 June 2012

Anniversary Box Car - 2009

















Issued on the occasion of the 150th anniversary of Marklin, this boxcar displays all of the Marklin brands. The imprinted theme of the DB V200 symbolises the scales G, I, HO, N and Z.

Model: The doors on both sides of the wagon slide open.
Length: 300mm LGB: 42355

Monday, 18 June 2012

Stainz DCC Fitting Guide - Part 3 of 4

13. However once the screws are removed, you will find it tricky to separate the two sections due to the drivers arm sticking out of the window and his head hitting the speaker housing in the cab roof. Care and patience are required here, together with some skilful 'jiggery'!
14. With the two sections separated remove the metal weights and make a note of their position and orientation. This will help you when you reassemble the locomotive after the decoder has been fitted.
15. Remove the boiler from the cab by firstly disconnecting the small chimney from the cab. Pull the top of the chimney towards the front, then twist it sidewards, which will remove the small plug from the cab.
16. Secondly, gently rotate the boiler left and right, repeating this action until the boiler can be pulled away from the cabs housing. Initially this is a tight fit, so patience again as you persuade it free.
17. The cab now separated from the boiler.
18. Leaving the two parts still connected via three sets of wires, unscrew the water pump and remove.
Part 4
Part 2
Part 1

Thursday, 14 June 2012

Moving boxes

Slowly the afternoons goods train passes by the new Brookwood extension.
Leaving Buddleia Pond station, DR 994605 approaches.
With a full set of DR box cars, loco 994605 passes by some 'baby tears' vegetation.
Not a day for passengers at a busy Homestyal Halt station!
The final bend before reaching Homestyal Halt station.

Sunday, 10 June 2012

Stainz DCC Fitting Guide - Part 2 of 4

7. Turning the body over you next need to remove the chimney stack. Using a small pair of pliers, turn the nut anti-clockwise to undo, taking care not to damage the two wires.
8. Follow the two wires across the base plate from the chimney stack to the connectors at the other end. Unplug these from the board with your fingers or if you prefer, a pair of small pliers gripped to the connectors.
9. Remove the tape from over the wires and gently remove the chimney, wires and light housing.
10. Remove the four pipes from the plastic plate and then remove the plate. (Hint: push the pipes from below.)
11. Next on the left hand side of the boiler, the water filler tube connects the boiler to the base plate. This must be removed or at very least, removed from one section. Although only pushed in, they are a tight fit.
12. With the remaining four screws removed, the base plate can be separated from the cab and boiler section.
Part 3
Part 1

Thursday, 7 June 2012

Brookwood Extension - Update

With the footings and supports in place, it was time for a quick alignment check. Everything was good, with both axis being perfectly level.

































Although there is still plenty to do with regards to the modelling of the bridge, it was very pleasing to know that all was in order.

Diagonal struts, walk boards, painting and illumination have all still to be added.

Tuesday, 5 June 2012

Ore Wagon
































Model: Field wagon with handle and opening side. Boxed in pairs.
Length: 150mm LGB:42170

HLR Stock: 4

Sunday, 3 June 2012

Stainz DCC Fitting Guide - Part 1 of 4

1. Available in starter sets the Stainz comes complete with lights, sound and a steam generator. Adigital decoder is not currently fitted but it does have a series of sockets on the main internal motherboard to accomodate an LGB Decoder 55021.
2. To reach the motherboard you first have to remove the body from the chassis. To achieve this you have to remove six screws. The first two keep the small rods affixed to the chassis on each side by means of a black bracket.
3. From the underside you can see the location of the screws. (Same on both sides.)
4. The remaining four screws are positioned two at the front and two at the rear under the hook bar.
5. The main body can now be lifted from the chassis, only the wires to power the motor from the wheels and pick-up shoes remain connected.
6. To remove these wires after the body has been removed, just prise off the connector using a flat headed screwdriver.
Part 2

Friday, 1 June 2012

Brookwood Extension - Girder Bridge footings (2)

With the warmer weather continuing I was able to complete the foundations for the bridge supports.

Once the foundations had dried, two concrete edging stones were mortared together and back filled with more concrete


















After a couple more days the mortar and edging stones had set and the first track section, complete with signal, were positioned into place.











The support boards were removed too and the finished foundations left to completely dry before returning the excavated soil.





This method was used for both end supports.

Wednesday, 30 May 2012

Mixed Goods

Going round the bend, a mixed goods train slowly approaches Homestyal Halt.
Passing a railcar patiently waiting for her passengers at Homestyal Halt.
Carefully does it whilst passing the new foundations of the Brookwood Extension.
Past the cordyline and over Buddleia Pond bridge.
On looking shires follow the progress of the mixed goods train.
Pulling out of Buddleia Pond station and passing the sleepy signal box.

Monday, 28 May 2012

Brookwood Extension - Girder Bridge footings (1)

With the dryer weather now upon us, it was time to begin the construction of the Brookwood Extension.

After the initial removal of a 10610 straight section (1200mm) replaced with an electric left switch 16150, a straight section 10600 (600mm) and two straight sections 10080 (82mm), it was time to lay the foundations for the new bridge supports.

The first bridge support foundations were laid to a depth of 175mm using spar, sand and cement to a 3:2:1 ratio.









Once the foundations have dried, after approximately 7 days, two concrete edging stones will be mortared together and back filled with more concrete. (See future post.)







Whilst waiting for the conctrete to dry, I covered the whole area with a solid plastic sheet to help the mix to slowly dry and thus not crack. (Not illustrated.)